Beyond the Aisle: How Eataly is Redefining Italian Culture in America
WEST PALM BEACH, Fla. — In the heart of this city's bustling CityPlace district, Eataly has found an unlikely new home: a century-old Mediterranean Revival church. The 30,000-square-foot space, with its original stucco walls and terracotta roofs, now hums with the sounds of espresso machines and Italian conversation, representing the brand's most ambitious U.S. venture to date.
"We are not merely a food hall; we are a cultural embassy," Tommaso Brusò, CEO of Eataly North America, told WWD in an exclusive interview. "Our mission is to export the authentic Italian art of living. Here, food is the connector, but the experience is the destination."
The West Palm Beach location epitomizes this shift. Beyond its counters of fresh pasta and curated wine, it features a stage for live music and literary events, extensive educational programs, and a staff trained as cultural ambassadors. "Tell us what you're cooking for dinner," Brusò explained, "and we'll recommend a wine while sharing the story of its producer and region. You're not just buying a bottle; you're bringing a narrative to your table."
This flagship marks a strategic evolution for the Italian brand, which first landed in Manhattan's Flatiron district 15 years ago. Eataly is now diversifying its American presence with three distinct formats:
- The Destination Marketplace: Large-scale hubs like West Palm Beach, blending retail, dining, and cultural programming in iconic spaces.
- Eataly Caffé: A compact, quick-service model currently in three New York City locations, offering coffee, pizza, gelato, and grab-and-go items in a 4,000-5,000 square foot footprint.
- Travel Hubs: New airport venues at JFK's Terminal 8 (with more coming), combining sit-down dining with retail for travelers.
Analysts see this as a savvy adaptation to post-pandemic consumer habits. "Eataly is moving beyond the 'foodie temple' model," said retail analyst Marcus Chen. "They're meeting customers where they are—whether it's a quick coffee break, a travel stop, or a day-long cultural immersion. This flexibility could shield them from the volatility of pure-play retail."
Adding to this expansion is the launch of Eataly's first private-label line, featuring over 100 SKUs from pasta to olive oil, produced through partnerships with small Italian artisans. "We guarantee exclusivity and quality you won't find elsewhere," Brusò noted, emphasizing the brand's premium positioning. "We compete with entertainment, not just supermarkets."
Voices from the Community:
"As a second-generation Italian-American, the West Palm Beach Eataly feels like a portal to my nonna's kitchen. It's the smells, the sounds, the passion. They've captured something intangible here."
— Sofia Rossi, Food Blogger
"It's clever branding, but let's be real: this is gentrification wrapped in prosciutto. Repurposing a historic church into a high-end marketplace? That's peak luxury commodification. The 'authentic' experience comes with a hefty price tag that excludes most of the community."
— David Klein, Cultural Critic & Author
"The café format is a game-changer for my busy workweek. I can get a truly excellent espresso and a quality panino in minutes. It brings a slice of the Eataly ethos to everyday life without requiring a three-hour commitment."
— James Park, Tech Consultant
"Their airport expansion is genius. Travel is stressful, and offering a reliable, elevated taste of Italy before a flight is a huge value-add. It turns a mundane necessity into a pleasant part of the journey."
— Elena Vargas, Travel Journalist
With plans to roll out the café format to other major cities and further airport expansions underway, Eataly's U.S. strategy appears focused on becoming a multifaceted lifestyle brand. As Brusò puts it: "Every format asks, 'How can we create a place where you can feel Italy?'" The answer, it seems, is no longer one-size-fits-all.