Department Stores Reinvent Men's Shopping: Casualwear Dominates as Retailers Bet on Sports and Experiences
PARIS — The men's fashion landscape within department stores is being redrawn. Driven by a sustained consumer preference for comfort and a cooling luxury market, retailers are strategically pivoting towards casual and sports-inspired apparel, while leveraging immersive in-store experiences to drive foot traffic and engagement.
Data from the International Association of Department Stores (IADS), a network representing over 549 stores across 28 countries with a combined annual turnover exceeding €40.5 billion, underscores this structural shift. While menswear remained a resilient segment in 2024—growing to 17% of total turnover from 16% the prior year—its composition is transforming at a remarkable pace.
The most dramatic change is the outright dominance of casualwear, which now accounts for roughly 70% of menswear sales on average. On a like-for-like basis, its share surged from 58% in 2023 to 74% in 2024. This rise has come at the expense of traditional categories: occasion wear has halved to just 10% of sales, and workwear has dwindled to a mere 4%, down from 9%. Athleisure, solidifying its status beyond a pandemic-era fad, grew from 5% to 7% and is now considered a wardrobe staple.
"The suit isn't dead, but its role has fundamentally changed," the report notes, indicating that formal tailoring is being reframed as "smart business attire" for specific occasions rather than daily office wear. Evidence of this two-tier wardrobe—everyday casual versus reserved formal—can be seen in pockets of rebound, such as a reported uptick in tailored clothing at Bloomingdale's in the U.S. linked to increased office attendance, and renewed interest in bespoke suits in markets like Mexico and Germany.
The rebalancing is also clear across price segments. As overall luxury demand slumps, the share of luxury brands in menswear fell from 32% to 25%, with high-street labels also dipping from 35% to 30%. The significant growth came from the premium and entry-level segments, which expanded from 33% to 45% of sales. This points to a pronounced consumer trend towards "accessible luxury," especially as economic uncertainty prompts more cautious spending.
To counteract softer sales in certain categories, department stores are investing heavily in experiential retail to increase dwell time. Initiatives are becoming more ambitious: Galeries Lafayette Haussmann in Paris partnered with Lacoste to transform its rooftop into a French Open fan zone; Breuninger hosted an Ami Paris café in Munich; and Magasin du Nord set up a pop-up basketball court in Copenhagen.
These activations dovetail with the strategic priority placed on sports and athleisure. Once supporting players, performance brands are now primary growth engines, spearheading community activities like running clubs and yoga sessions. Department stores are leveraging these brands to attract a younger, more active demographic and reshape the traditional men's floor.
/// Reader Reactions
Marcus Chen, Retail Analyst, London: "This isn't a trend; it's a correction. Retailers are finally aligning their floor space and buying with how men actually live and dress. The focus on experiences is smart—it's the only durable advantage over pure-play e-commerce."
Sophie Laurent, Fashion Buyer, Milan: "The data on 'accessible luxury' growth is the key takeaway. It shows men are still willing to invest in quality and design, but they're being far more selective and value-conscious. The middle market is being squeezed out."
David K., Former Suit Sales Associate, New York: "It's a race to the bottom. We're sacrificing craftsmanship and elegance for synthetic fabrics and sneakers. Department stores are becoming glorified gym lobbies. What happened to dressing with intention?"
Arjun Mehta, Strategy Director, IADS, Paris: "The report confirms that success now requires a hybrid model: compelling product categories anchored in lifestyle, combined with memorable physical experiences that can't be replicated online. The retailers who master this blend will thrive."