Paris Lingerie Fair Reflects Industry's Cautious Turn: Heritage and Comfort Lead 2026 Collections

PARIS — The intimate apparel industry convened here last week under a cloud of economic uncertainty. At the Salon International de la Lingerie (SIL), the mood was pragmatic, with brands for the Winter 2026 collections emphasizing reliability, heritage, and category expansion over radical reinvention. The strategy appears clear: equip specialty retailers with compelling stories and versatile products to withstand persistent headwinds.

Data presented at the fair underscored the challenge. French lingerie sales fell 2.6% to €2.01 billion in the eight months to October, according to Kantar. Globally, the market is estimated to have contracted 3-5% last year. "We're in a period where the market seeks reassurance," noted Vanessa Causse, a trend forecaster for show organizer WSN. "That's reflected in a return to foundational colors—black, nude, white—and a focus on trusted categories."

Those categories include shapewear, bodysuits, athleisure, and loungewear, which continue to capture consumer spending. "Mass-market brands have brought tremendous visibility to shapewear, creating a halo effect for the entire segment," observed Raphaël Camp, CEO of Comexposium U.S., which produces the Curve show. The blurring of lines between innerwear and outerwear also remains a powerful driver, inviting lingerie into everyday dressing.

Heritage corsetry houses, the fair's anchors, are leveraging rebranding efforts to navigate the downturn. Chantelle, celebrating its 150th anniversary, reported 5% growth in a declining market after shifting to a master-brand strategy. Aubade, under new leadership, is refocusing on seduction through a lens of female empowerment, debuting a new logo that nods to its iconic strapping and the Eiffel Tower. "The codes of 'sexy' are changing," explained General Manager Claire Masson, highlighting "false black" shades like plum and forest green as both alluring and reassuring.

Resilience was a recurring theme. Lise Charmel, which nearly collapsed during the pandemic, has rebounded by doubling down on luxury fabrications and retailer partnerships. Maison Lejaby, back for its second fair since a 2024 buyout, aimed to reassure partners of its long-term commitment, notably with olive and purple hues that defied the prevailing sober palette.

Innovation was most palpable in fabric and form. Wacoal's new Flawless shapewear line uses ultrasound bonding to eliminate seams, while Simone Pérèle revived archival lace through modern techniques for its new Bodies collection. On the supplier side, historic mills like Guigou and Sfate & Combier, now under the BNG Investissements umbrella, showcased their enduring craftsmanship.

The show also highlighted growth niches and regional bright spots. Hosiery is experiencing a creative revival, driven by designs meant to be seen. "Socks are making a big comeback as an accessible bridge between ready-to-wear and lingerie," Causse said. Meanwhile, several brands cited robust demand in the Middle East, particularly for high-end, seductive styles.

For independent retailers, the path forward hinges on community and curation. "There's a lot of uncertainty; stores close as owners retire with no succession," Camp noted. Yet, boutiques that cultivate trust can thrive. In France, specialist stores gained 2.6 percentage points in market share last year. Clémence Pariente, founder of Le Boudoir Los Angeles, embodies this approach, creating a space stocking only women-owned brands. "I advise like I'm talking to my best friend," she said, emphasizing the personal connection vital to the sector.

Observer Reactions:

Eleanor Shaw, Retail Analyst, London: "The strategic pivot to heritage and comfort isn't surprising. In downturns, consumers gravitate toward perceived value and authenticity. Brands telling a genuine story and offering versatile products are best positioned."

Marcus Thorne, Boutique Owner, New York: "The focus on materials innovation is what we need. Our customers want pieces that feel like a second skin—supportive but invisible under clothing. The new seamless technologies are a game-changer for everyday wear."

Chloe Dubois, Fashion Blogger, Paris: "It all feels so safe! Where's the fantasy? The provocation? Lingerie is about emotion, not just comfort. This retreat to nudes and 'reassurance' is a creative surrender to a fearful market."

David Chen, Supply Chain Specialist, Hong Kong: "The consolidation among heritage suppliers is noteworthy. Preserving high-quality European fabrication expertise through strategic buyouts could be key to maintaining a premium edge against mass-market pressure."